The rear rotate cylinders can be rebuilt with a rare tools and the Correct implements.
Trundle cylinders come as morals Accoutrement on most rear wheels on newer cars. The particular exceptions contain yet older vehicles that had shove cylinders on the front and rear, and some of the high-performance sports vehicles that bear calipers and CD brakes on the front and rear. The spin cylinders, which comprehend pistons, cups and springs, hog the rare construction point that allows them to be rebuilt with the genuine replacement parts. This saves bucks that might keep been spent on a original rotate cylinder. With a uncommon tools and apparent steps, the do-it-yourself repair human race can perform the rebuilding engagement.
Instructions
1. Pull the slotted piston rods gone of the shove cylinder dust boots and apartment the front rod on the left of you and the ethical rod on your hold together so you apprehend which piston rod goes into what side. Pull the rubber dust boots off the rotate cylinder ends--they Testament pop off from the grooved lips .
2. Push your finger nailed down one side of the spin cylinder Muzzle to power outside the parts. From the extremity to the interior Testament be the cylinder piston, rubber cylinder Mug, spring seat and the compression bell. Everyone side of the circle cylinder has twin parts.
3. Disinfected the inside and gone of the circle cylinder with carburettor cleaner and a rag. Dust down the brake backing plate, provided you preference the full nature Disinfected. Subsume an inside micrometer into the shove cylinder Muzzle and adjust the gauge tips until they contact the cylinder Muzzle walls. Act the micrometer back in forth inside the Muzzle until the gauge tips proceeding with a slight drag from the front of the cylinder to the back.
4. Scan the micrometer gauge for the figure recorded in thousandths of an inch. Direct to your owner's repair manual for the maximum allowed diameter thickness of your wheel cylinder bore. You will now have the manufacturer's specification number and the number you have on your dial.
5. Compare the numbers. If your measurement reads within specifications, you can hone the cylinder out. Place a wheel cylinder hone bit in a drill motor. It does not matter if your hone bit has the three-arm configuration or small sanding balls. Dampen the inside of the wheel cylinder bore with brake fluid. Insert the cylinder hone through one open end of the cylinder bore and turn the drill on.
6. Make swift back and forth movements with the hone as it rotates inside the cylinder bore.7. Make certain the cylinder bore thickness does not exceed the manufacture's specifications. If it appears too close, refrain from any more honing.
Hold you fingers over the opposite end of the cylinder bore to keep the hone head from popping out. Pull the cylinder hone out after about 15 seconds and check the smoothness of the cylinder bore with your finger. If it feels smooth and clean, insert the micrometer inside the bore and take another measurement. Wipe out the inside of the cylinder bore with carburetor cleaner and a rag. Open the wheel cylinder rebuilding kit and arrange the parts in the order in which you will install them. Start first by inserting the compression spring inside the cylinder. Place two spring seats on both ends of the compression spring.
8. Insert two rubber piston cups inside the cylinder on both ends of the spring seat. Important: make sure the concave portion of the cups are facing inward toward the compression spring. Place the cylinder pistons on both ends of the piston cups -- you might have to hold them in from both ends by spreading your thumb and forefinger over both bore holes.
9. Slip the rubber dust boots over the wheel cylinder ends, snapping them back into their lip grooves. Put each slotted piston back into the center holes of the rubber dust boots, on their respective side.
